Wednesday 21 August 2013

No 'me' in communal

I recently discovered the concept of the 'me bubble', whereby someone is entirely wrapped up in themselves. This seems to be increasingly common these days, as does a worrying failure to take responsibility for anything unless it is clearly and entirely yours (and sometimes not even then). 

I live in a flat in a beautiful 19th century building. It's a sturdy building, with a respectable history -in its time, it has been a hospital, theatre, library and even a fire station. When I tell local people where I live, they are intrigued. Everyone in this town knows my building. 

But after almost two years here, I still struggle with the state of the communal areas. The hallway is home, most days, to sweet wrappers and ground-in biscuits and crisps, even leaves and sticks. I pick these up as I walk up and down the stairs. 

The approach grieves me more, though. It has been smartly paved and the flowerbeds planted with the types of shrubs and grasses so in vogue today. Careful thought has been given to the colour of the plants and the lavender was a particularly welcome sight. 


Why then did I spend two hours today (far from the first such occasion) picking cigarette butts out of the woodchips, pulling bits of wrappers and plastic bags out of the plants and chiselling hardened chewing gum off the paving stones?


I know why I did it - because I don't want to have to walk through a giant ash tray every time I enter or leave my home, and because I knew, hope as I might, that no one else would bother. 

But what really pisses me off is that no one seems to grasp that this area belongs to us all. It makes all of our homes look like dumps. It is the first thing that all of our guests see. There is no me in communal - this is ours. Our responsibility and - if carefully maintained - our joy. Only one flat in this building has its own outdoor space, so this is the closest that the rest of us will get to a garden. 

People, make a mess inside your own four walls if it makes you happy, but this space is both mine and yours - keep it clean and beautiful, please! 

Monday 19 August 2013

Bully for El Bulli

Hard to believe, but this gigantic bulldog is covered in icing sugar, its garland of flowers - and seemingly random fried egg - made from spun sugar and jellied fruits. But this is no ordinary giant icing sugar bulldog (does such a thing exist? Hopefully), but one made by the pastry chefs at world-famous Spanish restaurant El Bulli. 


Celebrated in an astonishing exhibition at Somerset House, El Bulli - famous for head chef Ferran Adrià's 'molecular gastronomy' - started life as, of all things, a mini-golf course. In its first restaurant incarnation - if the photos are to be believed - El Bulli was a stereotypical Costa Brava tourist restaurant, not dissimilar to the sort of venue we'd have seen in ill-fated 90s soap Eldorado (but with sturdier furniture and, one hopes, door frames that didn't wobble when people passed through). Menus included all the Spanish classics (paellas, gambas and  sardinas aplenty) that the well-heeled tourist had come to expect. 

But in 1987 Ferran Adrià became head chef, and things started to get interesting. What struck me most about the exhibition was that it takes a very special mind to think of the things he did - never mind actually making them. Ravioli that's a bubble, rather than the traditional pasta envelope. Soup that - rather than the liquid you'd expect elsewhere - arrives as a foam spelling out the words 'THE SOUP'. Olive oil caviar (looking alarmingly like tiny cod liver oil tablets). 



And the detail of it all. One of the most fascinating exhibitions was a huge glass case full of rough plasticine models of bits and pieces of food, used to mock up each dish before it appeared on the menu. All helpfully labelled, because of course in the world of El Bulli, nothing is as it seems. 



The restaurant closed in 2011, but the El Bulli Foundation is due to open its doors next year. On the same site, it will be much expanded and is billing itself as a 'centre of creativity'. The emphasis, says the team, still headed by Ferran Adrià, will be on the development of cooking and other fields of creativity, rather than simply on making money. 



That said, this exhibition will no doubt be the closest most of us will get to Adrià's cooking. Whether you're a cook or a chemist, or simply a lover of beauty, it's well worth a visit. 

Thursday 1 August 2013